All posts by Andrea Grant

About Andrea Grant

Andrea Grant is a Children's Services Specialist.

Bibliobites in December: Midwest Meh

Often the culinary world seems to be neatly divided between those who love to cook, and those who have a passion for baking.  Those on the savory side appreciate the more-improvisational nature of cooking– the freedom to alter on the fly and go where whim and ingredients take them.  For those with this view, baking is simply too fussy and time consuming; or they (inexplicably) don’t care about sweets.  Bakers, on the other hand, are calmed by the precise nature of measuring or weighing, and enjoy combining that classic quartet of flour, sugar, butter, and eggs in infinite ways.  In December, our Bibliobites group tackled Midwest Made by Shauna Sever, a baking book focused on (as the subtitle says), big, bold baking from the heartland.  Though this book features some savory bakes, it’s mostly about the sugar.  And, as it turns out, nearly all in our group consider themselves cooks rather than bakers, so how did it all go down?

Let’s start with the good news: buckeye bars were an easy no-bake treat with the classic combination of peanut butter and chocolate.  They were rich and fudgy, “almost like peanut butter fudge.”  Peanut butter was also a hit in the scotch-a-roos, a riff on rice krispie treats; “I have already made three batches!”  Sounds like a keeper.  White fruitcake was likewise a twist on a classic, if much-maligned cake; it was lightened with meringue and “turned out exactly as the picture in the book…I will be using it as my Christmas cake from now on.”  Though it wasn’t zucchini season anymore, double chocolate zucchini loaf was “the best” use of this abundant vegetable.  It had good dark chocolate flavor, was moist and kept well.  Donut loaf was an intriguing idea– a loaf cake that the recipe claimed would taste just like a powdered sugar donut– and it did!  If you are a donut fan this is a delicious and easy way to get your fix.  Even better, it uses ingredients you’re likely to have in the house.  Jammy fruit and browned butter bars were a hit and a miss: one person thought this combo of fruit and crumbly topping was just right, but another found the crust and topping to be “quite dense.”  Unadorned golden almond cookies were a pleasant, not-too-sweet cookie with assertive almond flavor, but the beaten egg yolk brushed on top before baking was too thick– it would have been better had the recipe instructed you to dilute the yolk with water before using.  Simple bran muffins were straightforward, but you had to buy bran flake cereal to make them; they were “just OK– but I prefer my go-to recipe that features molasses.”  Didn’t know bran muffins without molasses even existed!  And one big flop was the crispy iced oatmeal flats which “tasted like cardboard.”  ‘Nuff said!

There is a chapter titled “Savories,” and some of our avowed non-bakers focused on that.  Nebraskan runzas were a filled bun; the filling of ground beef, cheese, and cabbage was a yummy complement to the soft yeasted dough surrounding it.  These were a bit fussy to make but worth the effort (and the recipe makes 12!).  English muffin bread looked just like its picture; it had the requisite holes and made excellent toast.  Big soft pretzels were time-consuming, but they came out tasting like those buttery mall pretzels.  They were even good reheated the next day in the oven, but because of the painstaking process, “I don’t think I would make them again.”

On the downside, smoky cheddar-crusted cornish pasties were “a bit dry” and needed a side of ketchup for dunking.  But the pastry was interesting, as it used a bit of vinegar for tenderizing.  Blue cheese and scallion cornbread was also dry and “you couldn’t taste the cheese,” a flaw that also appeared (despite using extra-sharp cheddar) in the brewers’ cheddar bread.  Brown Irish soda bread was an unmitigated flop: “it was dense, heavy, and didn’t taste good.”

It should be obvious by now that we went all-in, approaching our baking with gusto.  But for most, this title just didn’t make the grade.  As I reviewed everyone’s comments, it seemed that the majority had a fairly successful experience; but somehow we weren’t too impressed.  Part of this may be due to the style of the recipes, and for some the problem was the quantities.  Almost all of the recipes make a decent-sized batch; and as we learned in September, most of us live in smaller households.  So, too much of a pretty good thing?  And, of course, several in the group mentioned that they are not bakers; so it’s an uphill battle from the get-go.

Interestingly, this book made quite a splash when it was published in early 2019, earning rave reviews and gushing quotes from notable bakers and authors.  It’s been widely praised for its homespun and user-friendly recipes, as well as its practical, no-fuss approach.   The author’s tone is friendly and chatty; she’s clearly passionate about her Midwestern roots, and the diversity to be found in an area many coastal types see as characterless.  Ms. Sever may have wowed the critics, but unfortunately she didn’t win us over: our voting averaged out to a 2.1, our lowest score in a long time.

Our next meeting will be on Friday, January 29 at 11 AM.  We’ll chat via Zoom; if you aren’t already on our mailing list and would like to attend, please email group leader Andrea Grant.  We’ll be cooking, and maybe not baking, this month from Dorie Greenspan’s Everyday Dorie.  Copies are available at the main circulation desk.

Happy New Year to all!

Bibliobites in October: Back to the Garten

The Barefoot Contessa (a.k.a. Ina Garten) has amazing staying power.  After almost four decades in the food business, with twelve bestselling cookbooks and numerous TV shows, she is easily one of the most successful authors in the food world.  Her devoted fans are legion, and they love her warm, approachable personality as much as her iconic recipes.  Our Bibliobites group enjoyed an earlier title of hers, back in 2016; and last month we returned to Contessa-land to try out one of her more recent titles: Cook Like a Pro (her newest book, Modern Comfort Food, was released in October of this year).   Plenty of titles for the home cook claim that they will turn us into expert chefs– did this one really improve our skills?

Cook Like a Pro is the same size and design as all her other books, but that’s a good thing!  It’s a nice size (perhaps a bit smaller than many other current titles); the glossy, heavy pages feature easy-to-read type and generous white space.  It’s lavishly illustrated with a full-page, drool-worthy photo of almost every recipe.  The pages lie flat no matter where you open the book; this is due to its unique binding, a feature found in all of Garten’s books, and one much appreciated by our group.   Almost all of the recipes include a sidebar “pro tip,” designed to teach a cooking technique or prep method that will take your cooking to the next level.

One of Garten’s main claims to fame is the utter reliability of her recipes, which are typically extensively tested, tweaked and refined.  When we got into the kitchen, we found that, for the most part, her recipes were indeed pretty foolproof.  These days there’s often ample time to cook, as we are all home more; and, as one person remarked, “I was bored so I cooked a lot.”  The vast majority of what we made were main dishes, though one cook tried an appetizer of sauteed shishito peppers, which were simple and tasty.  In Garten’s newest book she revisits this recipe and adds a dipping sauce, which definitely kicked it up a notch.  This seems to be a theme of the author’s: she often repeats recipes, perhaps with a new twist or additional ingredients; this can be annoying or endearing, depending on who you talk to.  But I digress!

Back in the kitchen we launched into our main dishes with great energy and enthusiasm: two people made pork posole, which had many praiseworthy attributes.  It was good for a group, it aged well, and it was nicely thickened with crushed tortilla chips.  The garnish of refreshing, crunchy sliced radishes was a pleasing topper.  At least three people made chicken thighs with creamy mustard sauce, which was “good,” though it could have used more mustard.  On the downside, browning the chicken made “a huge mess,” and the recipe took longer to cook than was indicated, a quirk that occurred with other recipes as well.  Staying with poultry, two of us made crispy mustard chicken, which was also not very mustard-y.  This version was good but not great, and similar to others we’d had.  The chicken was topped with a thick layer of panko breadcrumbs mixed with herbs and seasonings; the layer was so thick it seemed “like stuffing on top of chicken” rather than just a crispy crust.

Panko made multiple appearances in this book: rack of lamb was heavily coated with it, which made for a mess when you carved the meat.  But, it was “cooked perfectly” and was a delicious splurge.  Another special-occasion dish, filet of beef, always turns out perfectly “if you follow the recipe exactly.”  It’s easy to make, is absolutely delicious, and a real showstopper.  This recipe is one of Garten’s signature dishes, and appears in all of her cookbooks!  Another pricey option, cioppino, was unfortunately an “expensive flop!”  The fennel taste was too strong, and the broth was too thin.  But if you really like fennel this could be the dish for you, as long as you don’t mind spending “about a million bucks” on a variety of seafood.

Coming back down to earth a bit, three people made flounder milanese, which was  “surprisingly good.”  This was a straightforward combination of lightly breaded fillets accented with lemon and capers, garnished with a simple arugula salad.  Pork souvlaki was easy and tasty, but what put it over the top was the “pretty fabulous” radish tzatziki.  Garten’s take on the classic chicken marbella wasn’t really very updated, as the recipe claimed.  A couple of small differences: the method is a bit simpler, and the ingredients include “more of everything.”  However, like all versions of this dish, it was absolutely delicious.  Two people made tomato and eggplant soup, which both agreed was “just OK.”  You can use leftover soup as a sauce in baked pasta with tomatoes and eggplant, which was also pretty basic.  These two recipes did not live up to pro standards!

This book features some delicious salads and side dishes, which for me were among the strongest recipes in the book.  Chicken and spinach waldorf salad was a keeper; it was “like waldorf salad on steroids.”  It did have numerous ingredients but our cook happened to have most on hand, so it was an easy dish to put together.  Israeli vegetable salad was crisp and refreshing, although “mine didn’t look so pretty (as the photo).”  Tomato avocado salad was also quite good, but it made a lot and doesn’t keep well, so you may need to adjust quantities.  Roasted beet, squash, and apple salad was a different and yummy combination of fall ingredients; likewise charlie bird’s farro salad was unique and flavorful, with its garnishes of pistachio and mint.  The farro was cooked in apple cider which added an unusual but welcome sweetness.

In the cooked vegetable department, orange carrots were super-simple but delectable, the sharp citrus perfectly accenting the sweet carrots.  Roasted broccoli with panko with its crunchy charred edges made this everyday vegetable a little more special.  This was one of those recipes where the timing was off; the broccoli definitely took more time than the recipe indicated.  Celery root and chickpea puree was “just terrific!”  This simple combo makes a great foil for any meaty main dish.  The celery root is subtle but just different enough to wake up your taste buds.  Another keeper was the parmesan pesto zucchini sticks, which would instantly convert any zucchini hater.  The combination of pesto and parmesan, along with the crunchy panko and plenty of salt, turned the mild zucchini into an umami bomb.  Warm brown rice and butternut squash was a savory way to turn rice and squash into a substantial side or lighter main dish.  With its squash and dried cranberries it would happily grace anyone’s Thanksgiving table.

This book has a breakfast chapter; shakshuka with feta was good, and the addition of feta a nice touch; but the recipe had too much fennel for our group member (fennel seems to be one of those flavors you either love or despise).  Two people made morning glory muffins, which were “really good!”  The recipe stated it made 14 muffins but both cooks reported that they made 24!  However the muffins stayed fresh for more than a few days so it wasn’t really a problem.   Once again, no one tackled any desserts; but those familiar with Garten’s recipes love her blueberry crumb cake and her limoncello cheesecake squares.  Though they weren’t in the book, both of these are very easy to find online; Garten is generous with her work, making many recipes available through her website and other online sources.

So, did we learn to “cook like a pro”?  Most of us love the Contessa and enjoy cooking from her books, but the overall consensus was that this title was a little sub-par.  Many of the “pro tips” seemed obvious and/or common sense, though they could be helpful for someone without a lot of experience in the kitchen.  The book also had some noticeable quirks, among them a major reliance on certain ingredients, like panko, fennel, and creme fraiche.  She also uses salt with a very heavy hand, both as seasoning and garnish.  In baking she uses extra-large eggs, which are a much less common, and sometimes less available, choice than the standard “large.”  A few of us were annoyed by her specifying brands of ingredients and cookware, and we wondered if that was what she really prefers, or it’s just advertising.

But quirks aside, we like the Contessa for her super-reliable and not too time-consuming recipes.  And most of the time she uses ingredients that are readily available, even if they sometimes are more expensive than average.  Accordingly, our rating was higher than usual, averaging out to 3.71 (out of a possible 5).  That’s a strong score for this group!

If you enjoy reading about/cooking from Ina Garten’s books, check out this link.  It’s a Food52 article about a slightly obsessed fan!  Thank you Carole for bringing this to my attention.

We’ll next meet on Friday December 4 at 11 AM; plan to chat via Zoom.  Please note that we are meeting on the first Friday of December– this is a combined November/December meeting.  We’ll be discussing Shauna Sever’s Midwest Made, a baking book exploring homey classics as well as ethnic specialties.  Copies are available at the main desk or via curbside pickup.

 

Bibliobites in September: TwoFer

Table for two….tea for two….like two peas in a pod….it takes two to tango.  Coupledom is celebrated in our culture, but not so much in the kitchen.  Most recipes typically serve four or six, which can be problematic for a small household.  While it’s convenient to have tasty leftovers in your fridge, how many times do you really want to eat any particular dish?  The leftover problem is sometimes a consequence of the shopping problem– that is, packaging is frequently “family sized,” and buying in smaller quantity is either not an option or is more expensive.  Considering that, according to the 2010 US census, 28% of us live singly and 34% of us are couples (so over 60% of us live in small households!), it’s surprising how much the food/cooking world still focuses on larger quantities.  That seems to be shifting a bit, at least in cookbooks; and this month our Bibliobites group test drove three titles devoted to small batch cooking, all by blogger Christina Lane: Dinner Just For Two; Comfort and Joy: Small Batch Meals For Every Occasion; and Desserts For Two.  Have we embraced the smallish and ditched the leftovers?

Most in the group do live in one- or two-person households, so this topic is relevant; and since we’re all cooking at home almost all the time, we can always use some inspiration.  So, there was a lot of cooking going on!  Dinner Just For Two was the clear winner in this group; there weren’t too many complaints about any of the recipes we tried.  Among the hits were French lentils and kielbasabaked Greek shrimpchicken Parmesan meatballs (“I liked it a lot!”), corn, tomato, and dill summer saladtandoori chicken (“one of the best…so moist and flavorful!”), and cheddar scallion waffles (“a nice, savory [versus sweet] option”).  This book features several recipes for bowls, which were also standouts: we enjoyed egg roll in a bowl (“love it…like the crunchy topper”), coconut curry noodle bowl (“very good!”), peanut lime noodle bowl (“I really liked the sauce”), chicken burrito bowl, roasted potato bowls with broccoli and gribiche (“the sauce puts it over the top!”), and almost Korean beef bowls.  All the bowls were praised for solid flavors and ease of preparation.

Though the book unsurprisingly focuses on dinner, there is a dessert chapter, and some breads as well.  No-knead Dutch oven bread was super-easy and came out “just like the recipe said it would!”   On the other hand, foccacia was “very bland…it needed something more than just rosemary.”  Espresso chocolate-chip cookies were tasty though they could have used a bit more coffee flavor;  mini chocolate cake definitely had the cute factor, but was unexceptional otherwise.  But the raspberry brownies with Chambord glaze were excellent– chewy and chocolatey with a nice hit of raspberry.

Several in the group had cooked out of Comfort and Joy; and the results from this title were decidedly uneven.  There were some hits: two people loved the green chile chili, which made two big bowls of this simple stew.  It was strongly flavored with cumin, which one person felt was way too much, but overall it was well-liked.  To go with your chili, you could try a small batch of corn muffins, which produced 6 tasty muffins.  Angel biscuits and gravy was a “good” version of this classic, as was the chicken parmesan for two, which was easy to make and featured a “really good” sauce (helped along by homegrown tomatoes!).  Two people enjoyed apricot-pecan chicken salad; this was a yummy combination,  but what really put it over the top was the “terrific” mustard-honey dressing.  A keeper!  From the breakfast chapter, one person made a “delicious” pumpkin spice latteThe recipe called for 2 tablespoons of vanilla for two drinks, which seemed, if nothing else, quite expensive.  A possible typo?  Blueberry muffins were “so delicious– I shared the recipe with several friends,” and peanut butter swirl brownies were “really good, really easy….made two HUGE brownies.”  Sounds perfect!

So, that was the good news.  There were a number of problematic recipes in Comfort and Joy, among which were some “bland” and “flavorless” chicken ‘n dumplinssweet and spicy Asian salmon that was “just OK” with “too much sesame oil;” and meatloaf that was also “OK” but had a “boring” glaze.  Charred corn tilapia was good enough, but the recipe was so simple that it was ultimately uninteresting; apple cider-glazed chicken breasts was a nice autumnal combination, but was one of a few recipes where the photo, which clearly shows cinnamon sticks, doesn’t match the recipe– where no cinnamon sticks are to be found.  Taco salad also had some recipe errors; you first cook your ground beef, set it aside– and then it is never mentioned again.  To add insult to injury, the entire dish lacked seasoning and looked “like something the cat would eat.”  In the dessert section, warm carrot cakes with cream cheese sauce literally fell flat (and were almost inedible), as the recipe contained no leavening of any kind.  The sauce was “delicious,” though!

Overall, we liked the author’s basic concept, since leftovers can be a mixed blessing.  It’s true that if you’re bothering to cook a meal, it doesn’t take much more effort to produce four servings rather than two, and then you’ve got an additional meal at the ready.  But sometimes you just want a “one and done,” or you live alone and even a recipe designed for two overstays its welcome.  Most of the recipes we tried were simple enough and quick enough that we didn’t mind the lack of leftovers, though most produced (by design) three good-sized servings.  The petite option was especially appreciated with desserts.  While a big cake and two people might initially sound like fun, it gets stale (!) pretty quickly.  So even if we don’t always want to cook sans leftovers, it’s nice to have that choice.

As for the individual titles, Dinner Just For Two was the favorite (a few planned to buy it), while the quality of Comfort and Joy seemed a few notches lower.  There were numerous typos and omissions, and many recipes lacked sufficient seasoning.  Oddly enough, no one used the Desserts For Two book, which was Ms. Lane’s original claim to fame via her blog.  We agreed that all the books had great production values– large format with heavy paper and easy-to-read typeface, and beautiful  and copious photos.  Our voting averaged out to a 4 (out of a possible 5) for the preferred Dinner book, and 3.2 for Comfort and Joy— so small is beautiful!

Our next meeting will be on October 30 at 11 AM.  We’ll be discussing one of Ina Garten’s more recent titles, Cook Like a Pro.   Copies are available at the main desk, or via curbside pickup.   We’ll chat via Zoom; if you’re not on our Bibliobites mailing list and would like to attend, please email group leader Andrea Grant.  See you then!

Bonus paragraph!

I asked the group for a favorite cooking- or shopping-for-two tip.  Most agreed that the freezer is one of their most important tools.  Obviously, you can freeze leftovers; but you can also use it to freeze small packages of meat and poultry that you’ve created from those large “family packs.”  It’s also helpful to know which recipes freeze well; you can make those in larger quantity, confident that they’ll be tasty months from now.  But, with all your little packages in the freezer, how do you keep track of what’s what?  First, label everything!  You think you’ll recognize something when you take it out three months from now, but trust me– you won’t!  A sharpie is your new best friend for avoiding unidentifiable containers.  Next, maintain a freezer inventory of some kind.  Some of us are into spreadsheets, some use plain old paper and pen, or (genius!) a whiteboard.  Whatever you choose, it’s key to keep it up to date, which is sometimes easier said than done.

Produce can be inventoried as well; try putting a sticky note on the produce bin so you can quickly see what’s lurking in there.  To prolong the life of produce, certain items will keep better if washed and prepped, like lettuce (wash, spin dry, store in a plastic bag or box with a slightly damp paper towel) and fresh herbs (ditto).  Some veggies can be cut up and stored for several days without ill effect, like broccoli, cauliflower, or carrots.

If you’re thinking small with your food, you might as well with your equipment, too.  There are mini versions available for stand mixers, food processors, and even multicookers (Instant Pots).  It often works better to cook with smaller skillets and saucepans, too.  For casseroles and certain desserts, try small au gratin dishes and ramekins.  They look appealing, too!

 

If you are interested in small-batch cooking, check out some of these additional titles:

 

 

Bibliobites in August: Veg Out!

What is it about cooking with vegetables that is so satisfying?  Is it the visuals– the mind-blowing array of colors, shapes, and textures?  Is it the elemental joy of taking an ordinary ingredient and turning it into something full of complex flavor?  Is it the fun of being on-trend with the newly-hip produce aisle?  Or maybe our bodies and brains are just jazzed on all those vitamins and antioxidants!  Whichever it is, the farm stand and produce section beckon like never before, especially in the bountiful month of August.  Though our Bibliobites group has tackled the subject of vegetables before, it seemed like a good time to revisit it, and to explore some new titles about this ever-expanding topic.

In the true confessions department, no one could say that they’d tried a totally unfamiliar vegetable.  Perhaps the lure of corn and tomatoes was just too strong?  One person used new-to-her fresh oregano in an eggplant cheesecake recipe from Plenty More by Yotam Ottolenghi.  This was a savory, quiche-ish concoction of eggplant, tomato, and cheesy custard; delicious except the fresh oregano was overpowering and its leaves too chewy.  But, more than good enough to try again.  Two people finally got to make the tomato pie recipe featured in the library’s 2020 One Book title, Ann Hood’s Kitchen Yarns.  The pie was cheesy and (of course!) tomato-y, summer comfort food at its finest.  The pie’s crust was a soft, biscuit style that was enjoyably different, and easy to make.

Since we were working on a general subject and not a specific title, a few people took the opportunity to re-explore some old favorites.  From the first Moosewood cookbook, tomatoes were highlighted in their “fabulous” gazpacho recipe.  “It keeps well, too!”  Another seasonal winner was the crunchy-topped peach pie, with its sweet and toothsome oatmeal crumble topper.  Continuing with the summer theme, the Vegetarian Times Cookbook has a cherry tomato and summer squash crumble, which our group member looks forward to making every year.  This “delicious” casserole can be a main dish or side and has a delectable buttery bread crumb topping.  This book was also the source for a tasty nectarine salsa, with tomatoes, basil, and lemon zest; it’s so good that “it doesn’t last long!”  One person loves Delia Smith’s cookbooks from the early 2000s; this British author is well-known in the U.K. though none of us Yanks had heard of her.  Her Piedmont roasted peppers are “spectacular!”  It’s a simple, classic combo of peppers, tomatoes, basil, and anchovies roasted with olive oil and garlic; serve with crusty bread to mop up all the delicious juices.  Fresh asparagus with foaming hollandaise is also a keeper with its “foolproof” hollandaise.  Though Ms. Smith’s books aren’t widely available locally, her website has plenty of recipes for you to peruse.  Staying with the Brits, Nigella Lawson provided a yummy red chilli jam recipe (” it’s a pretty color, too!”), and one for green sriracha as well (“It’s got a kick but it’s good!”).  And, if you’re still drowning in tomatoes, try the tomato chutney recipe at the end of this post; it uses lots of green and/or red tomatoes, is “easy-peasy” and is excellent with cheese.  This heirloom recipe is courtesy of our group member’s friend.  Thank you, friend!

Vegan Holiday Kitchen by Nava Atlas is another older (2011) title that proved to be worth dusting off.  Corn fritters with cilantro sauce were “fabulous” with their sweet and spicy tomatillo sauce.  A keeper!  Lemon, garlic, and rosemary potatoes were a good, classic combo, but they “needed more lemon.”  Mixed greens with apples, beets and pistachios was another winner with its lemony dressing and tart cranberries accenting the main ingredients.  One “klunker” was the red quinoa pilaf with kale and corn, which sounded good, but our cook didn’t care for the overall flavor profile.

More older titles worth seeking out: Vegetables Everyday by Jack Bishop (“a classic!”); Cooking From the Farmers’ Market by Williams-Sonoma (“great photos, info on how to buy, how to work with”); Vegetable Love by Barbara Kafka (“encyclopedic– a Joy of Cooking for vegetables– but no pictures”); Too Many Tomatoes, Squash, Beans, and Other Good Things by Lois Landau (great title, but “no pictures!”).

As for newer books, a few of us test-drove Vegetables Illustrated from America’s Test Kitchen.  As is often the case with ATK titles, it’s an extensive and exhaustive treatment of its subject.  This book is a heavy tome with plenty of enticing photos, and sometimes-lengthy headnotes, which some adore and others don’t!  It’s organized by veggie name, which makes recipes easy to find when you’re faced with, say, that glut of zucchini.   Speaking of which, the zucchini bread called for a full 1 1/2 pounds of shredded zuke!  It was a light and tasty version of this ubiquitous quick bread.  Another now-common recipe, avocado toast, was given star treatment with lemon zest and red pepper flakes.  The recipe made us realize, again, how good something so simple can be when given a little care and attention.  From the cabbage section, honey-mustard coleslaw was a hit.  It had “a bit too much mustard” but was overall very good.  There was also a helpful tip about wilting the cabbage with salt to cut down on excess moisture.  Bulgur salad with carrots and almonds was a great option for a steamy day, since the only cooking bulgur needs is a soak at room temperature.  This was a “refreshing” combination, with accents of mint and cilantro.  Sweet potato, poblano, and black bean tacos were a flavorful vegetarian main dish; they featured a pickled onion garnish which was “so easy– so good!”  There was general agreement that pickled onions are fabulous on just about everything!   Beef and Chinese broccoli stir-fry was a quick and easy version of this classic dish; and while eggplant involtini was a bit involved, the results were worth the effort.  It made nice leftovers, too.

Other newer titles we checked out included Vegan for Everybody (also from the ATK lineup); The Berkshires Farm Table Cookbook by Elisa Bildner (the velvety zucchini soup was “lemony and delicious” and included arugula); Food, Health, and Happiness by Oprah Winfrey (with a dairy-free yet creamy summer corn chowder); and Vegetables Unleashed by Jose Andres.  This title features “wonderful” pictures; author/chef/activist Andres (founder of World Central Kitchen) visits several farms and discusses farming practices.  His Greek zucchini fritters were accented with a tasty yogurt-caper sauce.   It’s worth noting that several people in the group had made zucchini fritters.  It seems to be a popular, easy, and delicious way to get ahead of this prolific squash!

Though it wasn’t a month of revelations in the kitchen, we all thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to get up close and personal with our veggies.  Hopefully some (or all!) of the above titles will bring you some inspiration and “produce” some delicious dishes for you and yours.  For September, we’ll once again be reading/cooking from the same title(s): three books by Christina Lane that are about small-batch cooking.  All available at the main desk or via curbside pickup: Dinner Just For Two, Dessert Just For Two, and Comfort and Joy: Small-Batch Meals For Every Occasion.  Our next meeting will be Friday, September 25 at 11 AM.  We’ll chat via Zoom; if you’re not on our Bibliobites mailing list and would like to attend, please email group leader Andrea Grant.  See you then!

Tomato Chutney

12 large tomatoes, green or ripe or a combination
4 onions
1 small handful of salt
1 pound sugar
white vinegar
1 tablespoon curry powder
2 chilies, chopped
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 tablespoon mustard powder
2 handfuls raisins
Chop the tomatoes and onions to the size of walnuts; sprinkle with salt and let stand overnight.  In the morning drain off the accumulated liquid, then boil the vegetables for 10 minutes with the sugar and enough vinegar to cover.  Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for an hour or so, until thickened.  Ladle into hot canning jars and process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes.  (Please note: consult a canning book for details on processing safely!)
 Store in a cool pantry, it is best after a month or so!

 

Bibliobites in July: The Soul of African-American and Southern Cuisine

July 2020 will undoubtedly go down in the record books for its unending heat and humidity.  It was so hot that the majority of our Bibliobites group admitted that it was just too hot to cook!  But even if we couldn’t bear the idea of turning on the stove or standing in front of a hot grill, we could still escape into the world of food with books.  This month we may not have done a lot of cooking, but there was an amazing amount of reading going on.

This month’s theme was African-American cuisine, which as it turns out is a broad topic, encompassing mostly Southern food in all its regional variations, which in turn has its roots in the Caribbean and West Africa.  For our group of Northern cooks, many of the iconic dishes of the South are new-ish territory; so it was a big learning experience for all of us.  Most of the books we explored also provided copious amounts of history, and though we may have known the basics, we all came away with a deeper understanding of African-American culture, as seen through the lens of food.

Two people perused Sweet Home Cafe by Albert Lukas and Jessica Harris.  This book features recipes from the cafe at the National Museum of African-American History and Culture in Washington, DC.  As one person commented, “It’s a history lesson with recipes.”  There were some definite hits in this book: baby kale salad was “yummy” with its abundance of tomatoes, corn, scallions, and chives.  The buttermilk dressing was a perfect topper.  Jamaican jerk chicken was nicely spicy with hits of ginger and cinnamon, and sparkling watermelon and lemon verbena was a cooling, fruity drink, though a bit too sweet.  However Frogmore stew, despite a stellar list of ingredients (sausage, shrimp, corn, potatoes) was disappointing– everything is boiled together with a lot of Old Bay seasoning, which our cook discovered she doesn’t like!

Soul Food Love by Alice Randall featured plenty of “typical” Southern ingredients, with a twist.  Red beans and Creole rice salad was (thankfully) served cold, with a “nice dressing;” this salad was definitely hearty enough for a meal and would be good to take to a potluck.  Fresh mint cucumber lime water was “basic but refreshing” and could also be made with sparkling water if you enjoy the bubbles.  And black-eyed pea hummus was “very creamy– the texture was like pate!”

The  prolific Jessica Harris brought us Beyond Gumbo: Creole Fusion Food From the Atlantic Rim.  Though we associate Creole cooking with New Orleans, it’s been influenced by African and Caribbean flavors, and features many ingredients that appear in almost all Southern cookbooks.  For instance, seafood gumbo had lots of celery, onion, and garlic; but despite this common and tasty trio, the dish somehow “didn’t come together.”  Cuban black beans were flavored with bay leaf, peppers, and onions; this was a solid combination but not outstanding.  Chicken and andouille etouffee lost some points for requiring one cup of oil for the roux, which seemed excessive (even if it is traditional).  Overall it was a disappointing title, and to make matters a bit worse, the only illustrations were antique postcards– there were no pictures of the food.

Princess Pamela’s Soul Food Cookbook by Pamela Strobel is a 45-year old classic that is now back in print.  This title features classic African-American recipes like mixed greens (“I used kale and pancetta”) and hot Southern cabbage with a vinegar and sugar dressing.   Carla Hall, “Top Chef” alumnus,  has a new one out called Soul Food: Everyday and Celebration. As was true of many books we test-drove this month, it includes backstories for the recipes along with family history.  One person tried the seared summer squash with sage; the squash is cooked long and slow until super-tender.  This was “OK…I don’t think I cooked the squash long enough.”  Interestingly there’s an audio version of this title, read by the author.  We were curious as to how that would work out for cooking purposes!

That was about the extent of our cooking adventures, but reading– wow!  There are so many great titles to tell you about, and when the weather cools off somewhat we’ll be able to try out many of the recipes we discovered.  Here’s a sampling: The Jemima Code by Toni Tipton-Martin traces the history of African-American cooking through a century’s worth of cookbooks written by women; Thirty Years at the Mansion: Recipes and Recollections by Liza Ashley details the author’s experiences as cook in the Arkansas governor’s mansion.  The author provides favorite recipes of each governor, in addition to (politely)dishing the dirt on her employers, including Bill Clinton.  Unfortunately no MVLC library owns this title.  A Real Southern Cook by Dora Charles showcases recipes from the Savannah area; Ms. Charles cooked at Paula Deen’s restaurant and they had a long and “complicated” working relationship.  She left Deen’s employ amid allegations of racism and has since worked to create her own legacy.  The New Lowcountry Cookbook by Marvin Woods (an older title no longer available through MVLC) features new takes on traditional foods of that area; and Southern Girl Meets Vegetarian Boy by Damaris Phillips uses classic Southern “core recipes,” and then modifies them for both vegetarians and vegans.

Many of the titles we read were either memoirs or a memoir/cookbook combination.  These were uniformly wonderfully written, heartfelt, and inspiring.  Check out: Notes From a Young Black Chef by Kwame Onwuachi; The Cooking Gene by Michael Twitty; and Yes Chef by Marcus Samuelsson.  Samuelsson also has a cookbook, The Red Rooster Cookbook, about his restaurant in Harlem; in addition to recipes, it’s a quasi-memoir about his journey to find a place to call home after decades of cooking all over the world.  All these memoirs have in common an immensely strong protagonist who never gave up on himself or his goals despite overt and abundant racism.  These chefs are possessed of an incredible work ethic and an enduring desire to bring what they know and love to the world.  We’re in awe of their persistence and energy.

August is the month of corn and tomatoes, so for our next meeting we have been perusing titles that feature vegetables in all their seasonal glory.  Choose a book from a selection at the main desk, or use a book you have at home.  We’ll meet via Zoom on Friday, August 28 at 11 AM.   If you would like to join us and aren’t already on our mailing list, please email program leader Andrea Grant at agrant@chelmsfordlibrary.org.  Hope to see you then!

Bibliobites in April: D is for Downloadable

Cookbooks…  if you like to play in the kitchen, you can never have enough of them.  At home you may have several shelves full of well-thumbed favorites, but it’s equally intriguing (and educational!) to peruse the latest titles, explore emerging trends, learn new techniques, and discover a new-to-you cuisine.   With the library’s building closed for now, we can’t hang out in the 641s, browsing through books on the shelf until we find the one that speaks to us.  But, luckily for us, the Chelmsford Library offers plenty of virtual alternatives, which our group tackled this month with great energy and enthusiasm!

Starting with the basics, most of us downloaded titles from Overdrive or Hoopla.  While Overdrive is accessible to anyone who has any Merrimack Valley Consortium library card, in order to use our Hoopla service you do need to be a Chelmsford resident.  However, nearby Westford and Carlisle also offer Hoopla to their cardholders, while Billerica and Lowell direct you to information about the Boston Public Library’s ecard.  This card is available online to any Massachusetts resident, and provides access to a wide range of e-resources, including Hoopla, Overdrive, and much more.

Everyone found both Overdrive and Hoopla simple to navigate, even if they’d never used them before.  And we quickly discovered one of the virtues of virtual books– it was amazingly easy to quickly flip through titles and decide if we wanted to spend more time on a particular book, or maybe buy it later.  And of course, the key attribute is that ebooks are accessible anytime, anywhere.  But….there were some downsides.   Recipes tended to take up more pages than print versions, which led to a lot of flipping back and forth while trying to cook.  Those who tried to print recipes were frustrated that they couldn’t efficiently print the whole thing on one page; it printed with the same number of pages as the recipe took up in the ebook, which led to a lot of wasted paper.  And of course we all missed having a physical book in our hands; an ebook “doesn’t draw you in….it’s a more remote (!) experience.”

Also, the selection of titles available in e-version is much smaller, so if you wanted a particular author or title, sometimes you were out of luck.  Some that we looked at and enjoyed were: Myers and Chang at Home by local favorite Joanne Chang; Magnolia Table by serial entrepreneur Joanna Gaines; 5 in 5 by restaurateur Michael Symon; anything by Jacques Pepin (“there were lots of his books on Hoopla”); and The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook  by Joanna Engstrom, a 1930s title that was fun to browse.   It even included advice on how to buy that newfangled appliance, the refrigerator!

Some of us had a stash of cookbooks at home that we’d picked up before the library closed, or that we ordered online.  We enjoyed two titles from prolific America’s Test Kitchen: Sous Vide For Everybody, and Twentieth Anniversary TV Show Cookbook (“it’s a big book!”).  One person perused Melissa Clark’s newest, Dinner in French. Many recipes looked enticing, although “she uses lots of spices that aren’t so easy to find.”  Midwest Made by Shauna Sever proved to be a volume of yummy, no-fuss baked goods, and Eat Your Vegetables by Joe Yonan was a unique collection of cooking-for-one vegetarian recipes.  And we all encountered one problem, regardless of book type: inevitably, after choosing a recipe we found we were lacking one or two critical ingredients– and all of us are shopping less and much more cautiously.  No more running to the supermarket at the last minute, or for just a few items!

Besides books, we visited plenty of websites, and these overall were preferred to ebooks.  Many in the group already have “go-to” sites or blogs, whether created by author, magazine, or TV show.  The resources really are almost unlimited.  And, with various meetings and activities cancelled (and a much shorter commute, if you can work from home), we now have more time to delve into various cooking projects– carefully planned ahead, of course, due to the aforementioned need to shop less, as well as the well-documented shortage of some ingredients, like flour or yeast (and heaven forbid you want brownie mix!).  The  Epicurious site, and others, now has a feature on its website, a “cook with what you’ve got recipe finder,” a notion that many are perforce embracing.  One person mentioned that her adult children text her a photo of what’s in their fridge, and then challenge her to create a meal out of what’s there.  Hopefully they take turns as to who has to come up with a dinner idea!  This concept also applies to equipment problems, as one person’s oven is broken, and parts have been slow to arrive.  So, lots of slow cooker stews, stovetop sautes, and baking in a tiny toaster oven.  The shortage of flour and yeast has also spurred creativity; non-wheat flours have come into play, as well as breads that don’t rely on yeast, like soda bread, beer bread or cornbread.

As much as we have a newfound appreciation for our downloadable resources, most of us would still far prefer to have a “real” book in our hands.  A big part of this is familiarity; perhaps after using e-books for a while we’ll enjoy their unique attributes more, and come to rely on them.  It makes me think of the shift from typewriters to word processing, which we all hated at first because it seemed so cumbersome, and was such a different way of doing things; the advantages weren’t (for some reason) readily apparent.  But, would any of us really want to return to using a typewriter today?  We’ve all become accustomed to, and appreciate the ease of, composing on a screen, despite software quirks.  Of course, the big missing piece with an e-book is the tactile experience, and for people who love to snuggle up with a good book (cookbook or otherwise), hunkering down with your phone or tablet just isn’t the same.  I’m sure there’s a neurological reason for this preference; maybe our human need for connection– and touch– extends even to certain inanimate objects?  Our excursion into the virtual may have been delightful and delicious, but it’s doubtful that, right now, most of us would desire to do our reading, or cooking that way.  This month I asked everyone for a vote on the overall experience with e-books, and while we definitely appreciate having this resource available, no one was ready to fully embrace it– yet!  So, most of the voting was in the 1-2 range (out of a possible 5).  I think that works out to a grade of D!

Our next meeting will be via Zoom on Friday, May 29 at 11 AM.  We would love to see some new faces next month – please let us know if you interested in joining us by emailing program leader Andrea Grant at agrant@chelmsfordlibrary.org  — We’ll be discussing Jamie Oliver’s 5 Ingredients: Quick & Easy Food.  While we can’t provide the physical book, most of the recipes from this title are available on his website, jamieoliver.com.  He also cooks from this book on CreateTV; check local listings for channel and time.  Stay safe, stay well, and see you then!

Bibliobites in March: Virtual-ish

Every day, lots of us cook in an ish-ful way.  Even if we didn’t grow up with an Italian nonna, or a Mexican abuela, or a Greek yia-yia, we nevertheless make foods that approximate, in some way, what  those grandmothers might recognize as “theirs.”  And as we become more familiar with cuisines from places like Thailand, Korea, or India, we’re adding them to our ish repertoire.  This month’s title, Indian-ish, exemplifies this mashup trend: namesake flavors combined with typical American ingredients and techniques to create something not quite, yet recognizably part of, a traditional cuisine.

Most of us would probably admit to being a little intimidated about cooking Indian food.  Sure, we love the food at Indian restaurants, but the flavors and ingredients are just exotic enough that it seems….complicated? Confusing?  Outside of our comfort zone?  The book’s author, Priya Krishna, addresses our anxieties head-on, with commonsense advice and a very helpful spice chart!  There’s also an FAQ chapter to further demystify things.  The author’s tone is friendly and funny, and she takes pains to illustrate that, as she says, Indian food is everyday food.  The book itself is the typical large format, with plenty of vibrant photographs as well as some pop-art style drawings that add to the contemporary vibe.  Most recipes fit on one page, and are, as the author insists, quick enough to put together on a weeknight.

Let’s take a moment to address the spice question: yes, some spices require either a trip to an Indian grocery (where those spices will be very reasonably priced), or ordering online.  But, many large supermarkets carry at least the basics (like cumin, coriander, cardamom, turmeric), and with this book you could get pretty far with just those.  One person even scored  fresh curry leaves at Market Basket, an item you might expect to find only at an Indian grocery.  Other Indian-ish ingredients available at the supermarket include lentils, hot peppers, cilantro, naan, and paneer.

So, we’ve sourced our ingredients– what did we cook?  Many Indians are vegetarians, so vegetables, grains, and lentils were front and center.  Two of us tried roasted aloo gobhi, a winning combination of roasted cauliflower and potatoes.  This tasty side (or main) was simple to assemble and its spicing was restrained– good for us newbies!  Chickpea flour green beans had mixed reviews; one person’s turned into “a mushy mess” (wrong pan size?  Too much water?), but another’s was just right, with crunchy bits of seasoned flour enhancing the taste of the green beans.  Red chile potatoes were good and quite spicy; the recipe was basic but the chile and chaat masala (a salty spice blend) kicked it up a notch.  And kaddu (sweet-and-sour butternut squash) was a “very different and very good” way to serve this common veggie.  This combination of sauteed squash, tomatoes, and spices was a keeper!

Moving on to main dishes, two of us made aloo ka rasa (spicy potato-tomato soup).  This was also a fairly basic combination of ingredients that was quickly made, but the whole was greater than the sum of its parts; the spicing made it interesting, and you could add ingredients like chicken or beans to make a heartier dish.  It aged well in the fridge, too.  One person was on the fence about it, but for another it was a keeper.  Noodle dishes turned out to be a big hit in our group: Malaysian ramen was so good, our cook made it twice; “I used less oil the second time and I liked it better that way.”  Rice noodle poha was also a yummy combo of thin noodles, potatoes, chile, and lime.  Roti noodle stir-fry featured plenty of stir-fried veggies; the roti (kind of like a tortilla) strips somehow didn’t become limp and soggy when cooked but did have the texture of tender noodles.  Garlic-ginger chicken with cilantro and mint showcased some familiar flavors; the combination was tasty but “it will be better in the summer when I can make it on the grill.”

We tried a few basics, too- a couple of people made cucumber raita, which was a standard version of this familiar side.  We made both the most basic dal and Priya’s dal— and neither was a big hit.  The flavors of both were “kind of blah,” and Priya’s dal in particular was “very soupy.”  Dal is something of a vehicle, like polenta, so perhaps we just needed to find the right thing to  pair with it.  A few of us planned to make cilantro chutney, as we all had lots of this herb in our crispers– it was used in almost every recipe!

Overall, we thought this book was a good introduction to Indian cooking–both its ingredients and cooking techniques.  Almost all of the recipes were approachable and quick to make, and the less-familiar flavors kept us on our toes.  Some spices and herbs commonly used in Indian cuisine have very definite flavors that people either love or hate (fenugreek and cilantro come to mind), so that could be a bit of an obstacle.  And if you’re really into meat and poultry you’d be pretty disappointed in this book, as it was almost completely vegetarian.  There were mixed reactions to all of the above, and so our voting averaged out to a 3.2 (out of a possible 5).

You might not be able to tell from what I’ve written so far, but as a result of the coronavirus pandemic and its stay-at-home directive, our meeting took place virtually.  Thank you to everyone who participated, and those who tried to!  Technology isn’t perfect and I know a few people couldn’t work out the glitches.  But you’ll have another chance, as we’ll meet virtually again on Friday April 24 at 11 AM.  This month, please choose a cookbook from one of our downloadable resources, either Overdrive or Hoopla.  We’ll have a variety of recipes to discuss, as well as our experiences of using a non-paper resource.  Stay safe, stay well, and happy cooking!

Bibliobites in February: Stirring the Plots, Part 2

A picture is worth a thousand words….every picture tells a story….seeing is believing!  The drive to create visual art, to capture a moment in time or to tell a story through pictures, is as old as humanity.  Though the written word may have pre-eminence in the modern world, we are still visual beings, and as such we can’t help but respond to images of all types—from cave drawings to emoticons.  In February, our Bibliobites group explored the second Chelmsford One Book title, Lucy Knisley’s memoir Relish.  This narrative explores the author’s “life in the kitchen,” as the subtitle says, and is written in graphic format.  This made for a different type of reading experience, where the art is equally as important as the text; perhaps more so.  How did our group respond to the style, the story, and the recipes (also in graphic format)?

Thanks to the Friends of the Library, who sponsor the One Book program, we all had copies of the book that were ours to keep.  It’s a tidy paperback, not tiny but small enough to tote with ease.  The artwork is full-color and the text hand-drawn (it was actually hand-traced from a computerized font, as we learned from the author herself at the library’s event on March 1).  For several in our group, it was a first experience with the graphic format, and opinions varied.  Some equate graphic novels with the comic books they read as kids, and it was hard to get past that feeling.  However, there’s plenty of text to read; we enjoyed her writing but there were complaints about the size of the text, which was fairly small.  The clear font did help!   Some compared the visual experience to reading a magazine; and as with Ann Hood’s Kitchen Yarns, each chapter could be read as its own complete story, which made it easy to dip into the book at will.  Most of us admitted that we focused on the words when reading; unfortunately there are no visual artists in our group who could provide insight into the conventions and subtleties of graphic novel art.    On a gut level, we enjoyed the drawings, which are expressive and charming.  It’s a different way of approaching reading, and like anything else it takes a bit of familiarity to appreciate its form.

For most of us, our first impulse when we want to convey a memory or revisit an event in our lives is to write it down.  But a visually-oriented person makes sense of life experiences by drawing them.  During her talk at the library, Ms. Knisley called this process “sketchbooking”—like journaling, but with drawings.  So a graphic novel or memoir tells a story, but the way something looked needs to be equally represented; hence the emphasis on the drawings.  The recipes at the end of each chapter are also in graphic format, which made them seem a little complicated to follow.  As with Ms. Hood’s memoir, some of the recipes were for things that most of us already have recipes for, like chocolate chip cookies; or items we’d just as soon buy, like pesto.  However, for a few recipes, like the one for sushi on p. 96, pictures make the whole process seem much more doable, and fun!  But, as in any memoir, the point isn’t the recipe itself but the story behind it and the feelings it evokes.  And while Relish isn’t a memoir that discloses dark secrets or deep traumas, it still has emotional resonance with its themes of family, food, and the connection between the two.  For our group, this title had its pluses and minuses– it wasn’t really something we could cook from (much), and while we enjoyed the author’s stories, many people just weren’t crazy about the format.  In the end our voting averaged out to 3.1 (out of a possible 5).

So we didn’t do much new in the way of cooking in February, but our March book, Indian-ish by Priya Krishna, promises to provide something intriguing and different.  We’ll be exploring a mostly new-to-us cuisine, familiar perhaps from restaurants, but not so much in our own kitchens!   We’ll meet to discuss this title at our next meeting on Friday, March 27 at 11 AM in the Fireplace Room. Books are available at the main desk, all are welcome.

Bibliobites in January: Stirring the Plots, Part 1

The curse and the blessing of memory is just that: sometimes we remember things we’d rather forget, and we forget things we’d rather remember.  This paradox makes the memoir format an imperfect one, yet it can give us a completely clear picture of someone at a particular point in their lives, or in a particular place with particular people.  In January, Bibliobites explored the vagaries of memory (and its associated recipes!) with Chelmsford’s One Book title, Ann Hood’s Kitchen Yarns.  Most of us thoroughly enjoyed this revealing peek into Ms. Hood’s life; her affectionate and heartfelt tales had aspects to which we could all relate. Several in the group particularly enjoyed the stories that featured Mama Rose (Ms. Hood’s nonna), as they had fond memories of their own grandmothers constantly producing massive quantities of yummy food.  And all of us could recall the anxieties of being a teenager, embarking upon our first real grownup job, falling in love, or losing someone we love.    The local angle appealed to many as well; we enjoyed reading about (for example) Jordan Marsh in its heyday at Downtown Crossing.  There were a few complaints about the essay format; sometimes the stories seemed repetitive and covered overly-familiar ground.   Many of the chapters in this book were previously published as standalone articles, and therefore included some basic details about family members.  These details weren’t edited out in any of the book’s essays, so if you read the whole thing cover to cover, you might find the same bit in multiple chapters.  On the plus side, if you wanted to dip into the book at random points, you’d never be left wondering (for instance) who Sam was.

Among the recipes we tried, my roast chicken was a hit, stuffed with garlic and fragrant fresh rosemary.  The classic chicken Marbella also drew praise, but had “too much oregano.”  Two of us were intrigued by Gogo’s Swedish meatballs with Ikea gravy, which was overall a winning combination; we loved the allspice in the meatballs.  One person thought the gravy was a bit thin and “needed something,” but the recipe is a keeper anyway!  On the other hand, Gogo’s meatballs were good but “not as good as other versions I’ve made.”  Never-fail soufflé “looked fantastic” but had an odd, starchy mouthfeel; it was also a bit plain and needed something to give it oomph—spice? Or some sautéed veggies?  One person baked the much-revered and fondly remembered Jordan Marsh blueberry muffins.  These were solidly good with a nice texture and plenty of blueberry flavor.  Unfortunately it’s not easy to compare these to the real thing, though it is possible; apparently Jordan’s Furniture in Avon features the muffins at Christmastime, along with the iconic Enchanted Village!  And everyone was quite keen to make Laurie Colwin’s tomato pie, which sounded positively scrumptious—but sadly we’ll have to wait until August, when we can have truly ripe tomatoes!

Our overall opinions on this title were, as always, quite varied.  It was “a fun read” or “just OK.”  And, “I don’t like memoir but this was better than expected.”  This title made me think a lot about how cooking can be a form of storytelling.  Food itself is evanescent—we eat it and then it’s gone; but the traditions surrounding food and its preparation mean that we can re-create a moment or a feeling anytime.  A recipe tells a story about time, place, family, friends; it’s a memory waiting to be shared now and in the future.  This idea is something we often instinctively feel but don’t consciously express, and perhaps that’s part of what makes Ms. Hood’s type of memoir so appealing.  And appeal it did—our voting averaged out to a 3.75, out of a possible 5.  After reading this book, we’re all looking forward to Ms. Hood’s visit to the Chelmsford Library on Thursday, March 19 at 7:00 PM.  Please register online for this special event.

Much more cooking ensued when we moved on to January’s second title, Bring It! By Ali Rosen.  The subtitle of this book explains it well: tried and true recipes for potlucks and casual entertaining.  Our group was already gearing up for the One Book community potluck on April 4. This title proved to be a fun read; most of us marked several recipes that sounded intriguing and quite doable.  Lots of luscious photos were an additional enticement!  The typeface was easy to read, and pages featured plenty of nicely organized white space.  This book is a bit smaller than the prevalent “full sheet of paper” size; it’s about 2” shorter and 1” narrower, but still seemed large enough that many recipes could fit on one page.  Ms. Rosen’s chapters make their way through a full meal, from appetizers to desserts; there’s also a helpful section on how to tote your dish to a potluck (and some recipes also had specific instructions on how to do that).

In the kitchen, let’s start with some salads: pear, arugula, and goat cheese salad was “so good” with its bright lemon zest garnish, and orange, parsley and walnut salad was equally refreshing and delicious.  Supreming the oranges (removing the skin from the individual segments) was “too time consuming” but other than that it was easy to put together.  Though it featured plenty of endive and parsley, it wasn’t bitter.  Kale salad with carrot ginger dressing had a more complicated than average dressing, but the result was a good one; and this salad would be perfect to make in advance for a potluck, as kale holds up well in the fridge.  As for cooked vegetables, the baked onion was that simple, perfect combination of “really good and really easy!”  Three people zeroed in on mustard roasted carrots, which were likewise easy to prepare with tasty results.  Acorn squash with Parmesan and hazelnuts was a nice combination with its tart note of lemon, but “I still prefer squash with brown sugar or maple syrup.”

 

Along with the veggies, we tried a couple of grain-based sides.  Two people made scallion quinoa which was “very good” with some caveats: the recipe calls for putting in frozen peas at the beginning of the cooking time, so they were mushy and an unappealingly olive shade when all was done; and the quinoa took much longer to cook than usual as the frozen peas cooled off the cooking liquid!  It’s a good vegetarian option but needs some tweaks.  Couscous with peas and onions needed a higher proportion of couscous to veggies; overall the flavors were just “OK,” though the feta and lemon in it were tasty.

There’s a full chapter devoted to casseroles and tarts; two people made the classic baked chicken and pasta casserole.  This made a bounteous panful (“you’ll need a big bowl!”) and was a good rendition of a familiar dish that “I would make again.”  Bacon mushroom quiche had a nice, crisp crust (due to blind-baking before filling), but overall it was “not spectacular—but good.”  However, broccoli and almond quiche was a bit more intriguing with its feta cheese, nuts and cayenne.  Spicy Brussels sprouts tart was likewise a less-traditional take on a tart that proved highly successful, “really good—would definitely make again.”

Moving on to meatier mains, two people tried chicken with rosemary and mustard, with uneven results.  One person didn’t feel that brining helped any, and in fact made the dish too salty.  Plus, “the flavor was kind of boring.”  Another thought the flavor was “delicious” and the texture nicely moist; but the marinade burned in the pan, making quite a mess.  Short ribs with quick pickled shallots was a bit fussy to put together, but the result was worth the effort.  It was “very flavorful, and the pickled shallots were excellent.”  The shallots nicely balanced out a fairly heavy, rich dish.  One brave soul attempted the complex seafood paella-ish (“I didn’t use the octopus!”).  As is typical of this dish, there was a lengthy prep time, with plenty of chopping; but it makes a lot and “ages well.”  A great project for a winter afternoon.  Two people made vinegar chicken with tomatoes; this simple combination drew praise for its moist chicken and balanced vinegar flavor.  And the tarragon was “the best!”  Tahini lamb and rice promised unique flavor with its middle eastern spices, but the result was unfortunately “kind of boring.”

Oddly enough, only  one person made dessert, the chocolate and walnut rice krispies bars, which were a hit at our meeting.  The chocolate cut through the sweetness of the marshmallow, which turned the bars into a much more enjoyable treat for grownups.  Easy and good!

On the whole, this book was a hit with our group, and a few people planned to buy it.  We liked that (octopus aside) most of the recipes featured ingredients that were easy to find, or that we were likely to have on hand.  And most dishes involved moderate effort for a tasty result, always an appealing trait!  There were, of course, a few complaints: several people noted that some recipes didn’t give the size of a baking dish, which could be important for a dessert.  We also questioned whether some dishes really were portable (those with lots of sauce), or would be easy to serve at a potluck (the food was prepared in large pieces).  But despite these caveats, this was an approachable and enjoyable title for most.  From all this positivity, you might expect a very high rating, but we averaged out to a 3.3 out of a possible 5.  Still a solid score!

We’ll next meet on Friday, February 28 at 11 AM in the Fireplace Room, when we’ll be discussing our second One Book title, Lucy Knisley’s comic-format memoir, Relish.  Ms. Knisley will be visiting the Chelmsford Library on Sunday, March 1 at 2 PM (please register online); come to our meeting for a preview.  All are welcome!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bibliobites in December: The Pursuit of Happiness

Prolific author and baking guru Maida* Heatter is known as the “Queen of Cake.” No one did more over the last quarter of the 20th century to up our dessert game, for once we’d tried her classic buttery and chocolatey delights, there was no going back. A self-trained baker with a no-nonsense, perfectionist approach, her precise yet luscious recipes inspired many to give baking the time and care it deserved. December’s Bibliobites title, Happiness Is Baking,  was Ms. Heatter’s final book before she died in June 2019 at the age of 102. In her introduction, she says that with all the baked goods she creates, “…we eat an awful lot of them.” Perhaps noshing on cookies and cake confers longevity? Or is it, as the title implies, that it’s the baking and sharing of treats that keeps one happy and healthier? Our group is never shy about rising to any such challenge, and even if you don’t bake much, you’d probably be pulling out the butter and sugar at some point in December! Did we enjoy the ride? Read on to find out.

This book is a somewhat smaller format than many are nowadays, so an oft-repeated complaint was that the book would not stay open on its own. The text is quite readable, and the layout is clear. Chatty headnotes abound, but most weren’t long enough to try one’s patience. The illustrations are just that– drawings (full-color) rather than photographs. The drawings are lovely– homey and friendly, but most of us still wished that there were photos instead. Some in the group commented that they’d seen some of these recipes in another of her books; this title is basically a compilation of “greatest hits.”

Once we’d turned on our ovens, there were ups and downs. Sour cream black-fudge loaf cake had a fantastic texture and big chocolate flavor, “loved it!” Queen mother’s cake , also chocolate, was another winner, a flourless cake that wasn’t too dense and was absolutely delicious. Two of us tried the east 62nd street lemon cake ; one person’s verdict was “just OK,” but for another it was “really good with a nice, fine texture.” California carrot cake sounded positively tantalizing with honey, raisins, pineapple, and walnuts; but the batter was so thin that all the fruit and nuts sank to the bottom, where they burned. Even when this cake tested done, the interior was unpleasantly wet and heavy. One person had a similar flop with chocolate applesauce cake, but two others thought it was marvelous, with a flavor that harmoniously united chocolate cake and spice cake.

Moving on to cookies, chocolate hermits were “good, but I still like regular (non-chocolate) hermits better!” Possibly chocolate doesn’t make everything better? Classic rugelach turned into quite a project for the two who tried them– they were “fussy and messy to make,” and had “so many steps….so many small bowls [for the filling ingredients].” In the end, despite good results, “I wouldn’t make them again.” David’s cookies were also a bit fussy to make, as the directions tell you to remove individual cookies from the sheets as they become done; the logistics of doing this (constantly opening the oven, trying to remove very hot cookies without damaging them or their neighbor) turned a fairly simple cookie recipe into a chore. Best chocolate chip cookies were yummy; these were the crispy type (rather than cakey or chewy– obviously “best” only applies if you prefer crispy!).  Instructions tell you to wet your hands and then roll the dough into balls, but the dough was so soft that this made for a gooey mess.  You are forewarned! But oatmeal molasses cookies were excellent, with a nice “caramelly” flavor. Brownies, a recipe that is closely identified with Maida Heatter, produced one hit and one miss; but both bakers would try them again. Plus, as instructed, “wrapping them individually worked great!”

A few people were ambitious enough to make pies; the apple pie USA was a bit time consuming with its persnickety crust, but “everyone loved the pie!” Key lime pie had a wonderful gingersnap crust, and strawberry tart had a crust that “I use for any fruit tart.”

If you aren’t a Maida Heatter devotee, you wouldn’t have realized at first that all of the recipes in this book are published in her other titles, so if you have her other books you might not want to bother buying this one (you can get it from the library instead!). Despite some difficulties, our group on the whole enjoyed this book, and for those of us who weren’t so familiar with her, it was a nice introduction. But no cookbook is perfect; there were complaints that too many recipes contained walnuts; there was an overabundance of chocolate recipes (some of which seemed a bit too similar to each other), and some of her techniques were a bit unrealistic for us amateurs (beating egg whites by hand on a turkey platter!) Also we thought it odd that a pro like Ms. Heatter doesn’t weigh her ingredients. While it’s true that most American cooks still prefer volume measurements, weighing has made some inroads, and would have been appreciated by those of us who love our kitchen scales.

Our ups and downs were quite evident in our voting: a few at each end and most somewhere in the middle, so we averaged out to a 3.5 (out of 5). Be sure to join us at our next meeting  – (coming right up!) – on Friday, January 31 at 11 AM in the Fireplace Room. We’ll be discussing one of the Chelmsford One Book selections, Ann Hood’s memoir Kitchen Yarns, as well as Bring It! by Ali Rosen. Copies are available at the main desk, all are welcome!

  

*Pronounced May-da, in case you were wondering.